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Dear reader…
The following recipes are from years of putting pen to paper, or today, fingertips on a keyboard (1-2 at a time). The recipes are not just a matter of measuring, but also small anecdotes of where, when and why they were cooked. Not all recipes are invented by me, but dishes that were cooked with care, and a passion for the trade. Many of the recipes to follow have seasonal inspirations, as well as daily challenges from awesome people like yourself who were craving a specific dish.
Enjoy….
Portobello Mushroom in Phyllo, Roasted Red Pepper Sauce
Serves 6
Portobellos might be the most popular mushroom besides the button and cremini, sometimes referred to as baby bella. Whether using either, they are sauteed and made into a filling for a phyllo dough wrap. One can never go wrong in serving mushrooms in a crispy wrap with bubbles–the very essence of umami.
Phyllo is a simple mix of flour, water and very little oil, mixed and stretched to a thin sheet. It originated around the 11th Century in the Middle East and Balkans, with traditional recipes being in the sweet category, such as baklava. I have never ventured into the preparation of fresh phyllo, or seen it done, so I rely on premade phyllo. After all, everything does not–nor should not–be homemade! You’ll find it in any grocery store’s frozen food section.
The sheets are layered one by one on top of each other with melted butter brushed in between them.
Phyllo dough crust:
● 1 Pack of Frozen phyllo dough, Thawed
● 1/2 lbs butter, melted
● 2 eggs, beaten
● 1 cup grated Reggiano Parmigian
Mushroom Filling:
● 6 medium sized portobello mushroom caps. Beards and stem removed
● 1 onion, finely diced
● 3 shallots, finely diced
● 4 cloves of garlic, chopped
● 2 oz of bacon, cut into brunoise (finely diced)
● 1 stick of butter
● 1/2 cup rich veal stock
● 1 cup grated Reggiano Parmigiano
● 1 egg
● 1/2 cup chopped parsley
Cut the mushrooms into small dice. In a saute pan, melt the butter, let it foam a little, get a little golden brown, then add the onions, garlic, bacon and shallots, and sauté on medium heat for 10-12 minutes. Once the mushrooms, onions and bacon are cooked through, add the veal stock. Keep moving the mixture in the pan with a wooden spoon. When the stock has evaporated, season with salt and pepper, then set aside. When the mixture comes to room temperature, add the egg, mix, then add the parsley and cheese. You should now have a good, somewhat gooey mixture.
Make the phyllos:
On a table, spread out a sheet of phyllo dough, brush the sheet with melted butter, then place another sheet on top, and repeat until you have six layers of phyllo. With a knife, cut the dough sheet into 2-inch “ribbons.” At the bottom of a ribbon place a dollop of the mushroom filling.
Once all ribbons have a dollop, make triangles. Take the bottom right corner and fold it up to the left side of the ribbon to create a triangle. Then take the bottom left corner and fold it up to touch the right side of the ribbon, sealing and shaping the triangle (try to avoid any open corners), continue to fold until the ribbon strip is fully incorporated.
Place the triangles on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, brush with egg wash and sprinkle with the grated cheese. Bake in a preheated 325-degree oven until golden brown and crispy. Serve on a platter lined with a cloth napkin.
Roasted Red Pepper sauce:
● 2 red bell peppers, seeds removed and cut into pieces
● 2 shallots, chopped
● 3 garlic cloves, chopped
● pinch of Thai chili flakes
● 2 tablespoons honey
● juice and zest from 1 lemon
● 1 oz fresh ginger root, chopped
● 1 small splash of sesame oil
● 1 bunch cilantro, large stems removed
● olive oil for sauteing
In a saute pan, heat olive oil, add onion and garlic, wait a minute then add peppers, and saute on medium heat for 5 minutes, until peppers and onions are caramelized and cooked. Transfer to a blender, add remaining ingredients and blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
Oysters with Huancaina “Mignonette”
Serves 6
Despite the popularity of oysters the world over, there are basically only five varieties that are native to the United States. However, there are an infinite number of flavor and textural differences even within each variety. This is what makes oysters so interesting. The term “merroir” is now very much in vogue. It refers to differences in flavor, aroma and texture that result from where the oyster spent its life, whether farmed or in the wild. Just as a Cab made from grapes grown in Rutherford will show some characteristics that one from, for example, Spring Mountain won’t despite both being from Napa Valley, an oyster harvested from the waters off Long Island will be very different from one taken from Apalachicola Bay in Florida’s Gulf Coast.
I have always preferred smaller oysters, particularly the briny West Coast Kumamoto. And it was during my time on the West Coast in San Francisco that oysters found their way into my repertoire. However, my very first encounter was during the course of a special dinner put on at my place of apprenticeship, the Hotel Troense. A bushel of Belons–probably Europe’s most well-known oyster– arrived for the occasion. Belons are large and quite briny in flavor, maybe too briny for my then-undereducated palate! I was not excited by the prospect of serving them in their raw state (for some reason, eating raw oysters wasn’t part of my childhood despite Denmark’s nautical history) but my kitchen peers were very excited by this menu item.
Mignonette is a very simple sauce to make as it is just equal parts wine and vinegar and then the addition of any flavorings you choose. Freshly cracked black (or white) pepper and maybe a sprinkle of salt enhances the flavors. The aji amarillo* pepper is a nice addition to the flavor profile.
Six oysters of your choice per person (consult your local fishmonger for availability, freshness, etc.). Shuck your oysters, something that is a bit of skill but not terribly difficult (YouTube is your friend here!) or ask your fishmonger to do it making sure that when transporting them you don’t spill their tasty liquor. Keep them on ice until service, and serve with a small dish of the mignonette that can be spooned onto each oyster.
Mignonette:
● 1 aji amarillo* pepper
● 1 shallot, finely chopped
● 1/2 cup white wine (preferably Chardonnay)
● 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
● Freshly cracked black or white pepper and a pinch of salt
● 1/2 cup finely chopped cucumber
Remove skin and seeds from chili pepper, chop finely and add all the other ingredients into a bowl and mix.
Poached Shrimp With My Cocktail Sauce
Serves 4 to 6
A classic that deserves a place at the table. The success of a great shrimp is how it’s cooked. The size of shrimp to use can be debated. Some restaurants believe the bigger the better, which allows a higher price to be charged. I don’t believe they should be smaller than an ounce with two being the perfect size (unpeeled).
Cocktail sauce is much more than just ketchup and horseradish, although these are the predominant ingredients, much like a Bloody Mary is not just vodka and V-8 juice. Spices are super important.
Ingredients:
● Serve 4 shrimp per person as an appetizer, 6 as an entree
● 30 2 oz peel- on shrimp
● 2 medium sized carrots
● 2 onions peeled
● 2 stalk of celery
● bouquet garni*
● 2 cups of white wine
● 1 gallon water
● 2 lemon cut in 1/2
● salt
Start a court bouillon*:
Cut vegetables into mirepoix*, add them to a large pot with the remaining spice ingredients. Bring the pot to a simmer and let cook for about 15 minutes. Increase the heat to a rapid boil and drop 10 shrimp into the pot with a slotted spoon. Allow the bouillon to return to a boil and cook shrimp for 2-3 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon onto a sheet tray, then repeat the process with remaining shrimp twice, 10 shrimp each time. This method of fast, small-batch cooking will result in firm, crisp shrimp, not rubbery overcooked shrimp. Let shrimp rest for 20 minutes, then place in the refrigerator.
Once they are cold, peel them, leaving the tail attached, and with a small knife, make a small cut down the back of the shrimp, remove the organs, rinse and clean if needed.
Arrange them onto a serving platter or plate for individual serving.
Cocktail sauce:
● 2 cups ketchup
● 1/2 cup tomato juice
● 1.4 cup freshly grated horseradish or substitute with already grated from the store
● 1/4 cup finely chopped celery
● juice from 1 lemon
● zest from 1 lemon
● 1 teaspoon fennel seed
● 2 oz of Worcestershire sauce
● 3 dabs of your favorite hot sauce
● 1/4 oz soy sauce
● zest from 1 lime
● juice from 1 lime
● 1 teaspoon of mustard seeds
● 1 teaspoon of caraway seeds
● 1 teaspoon of black peppercorns
Toast all the dry spices, then grind them in a spice blender, set aside. In a bowl add remaining ingredients, mix, and season the mixture with 1/4 of spice mixture. Adjust to taste with more seasoning and horseradish, if needed. Serve the shrimp and cocktail sauce with freshly cut lemon wedges.
I hope I have inspired you to have a bit of fun, maybe challenge a dusty pot and pan to return to the stove. Otherwise, call 305-663-2100 for reservations.
Jan Jorgensen, Two Chefs Restaurant
