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Dear reader…
The following recipes are from years of putting pen to paper, or today, fingertips on a keyboard (1-2 at a time). The recipes are not just a matter of measuring, but also small anecdotes of where, when and why they were cooked. Not all recipes are invented by me, but dishes that were cooked with care, and a passion for the trade. Many of the recipes to follow have seasonal inspirations, as well as daily challenges from awesome people like yourself who were craving a specific dish.
Enjoy….
Spinach Soup with Poached Egg
Serves 4
I grew up with this soup. My mother would often make this dish for my father on Fridays when he would arrive home late after a long day at work. The rest of us had already eaten.
I introduced the soup at a lunch menu I cooked at Stars in San Francisco. At the time I had the privilege of working with Hung, a lovely man from China who knew how to work a set of cleavers as if he were playing a set of drums. What made the soup special that day was that Hung chopped the blanched spinach leaves tirelessly instead of blending them, in fact he chopped them into a fine paste which allowed the spinach to “paste” naturally, versus a blender that will tear the fibers in the leaves apart, which can result in bitter flavors. Although a blender is, of course, an option to make this soup, ultimately it is best if chopped by hand.
The soup is best made in the fall when the spinach is dark and full of flavor. When blanching the spinach make sure that the leaves are cooked.
Think of the soup as a 2-step process. Step 1: The spinach. Step 2: The veloute. *
1 – 1.5 lbs of fresh spinach, stems removed
Blanch the spinach in lightly salted boiling water, making sure the spinach is cooked. Remove spinach and cool immediately in an ice bath. Drain spinach and pat very dry. Chop into a paste with Chinese cleavers (if you have them) or a large chef knife. Feel free to pretend you’re a drummer in your favorite rock band! Set aside. If you prefer not to play the drums, use a blender and blend until smooth, adding a little chicken stock if needed to get the blender going.
The Veloute (Soup):
● 1/2 stick of butter
● 1/2 cup of flour
● 1 – 1.5 qt of chicken stock
● 1 onion, cut into quarters
● 1 bay leaf
● freshly grated nutmeg
● 10 whole white or black peppercorns
● salt to taste
● lemon juice (optional)
Melt the butter in a medium pot. Stir in flour. Cook the flour in the butter a minute, add the chicken stock while stirring to prevent lumps from forming and flour from burning. Add onion, bay leaf, peppercorns and nutmeg, and reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes. Salt to taste.
Strain soup into a new pot, bring back to a light simmer, add the spinach paste and stir the soup, adjusting the flavor with salt and/or a small squeeze of fresh lemon juice.
Serve immediately with the poached egg in the middle.
4 eggs
To poach an egg
Start with a large pot with three inches of water, a generous seasoning of salt and a Bouquet Garni. Let the water simmer for a few minutes, then remove the bouquet garni.
Add a splash of apple cider vinegar and bring the pot to a gentle simmer.
Five minutes before serving, crack the eggs one at a time into a 4-oz ladle and gently lay each into the poaching liquid– do not allow them to touch each other — stir/whirl the water gently, to help shape the eggs.
Poach for 2 1/2 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon.
Hash Browned Potatoes, Crisp Goat Cheese
Serves 6
One of my most successful combos, regarding wine friendly food, is the grease from roasted potatoes, and crisp fried goat cheese on top.. You just can’t go wrong. I sometimes use the dish as a set-up to a larger protein, or on its own helped with a salad. Regardless, the combo with the greasy potatoes and the creamy – crisp goat cheese is the attraction of this dish.
I like to use Yukon Gold potatoes, they offer a creamy texture once cooked.
Ingredients:
● 2 lbs. of Yukon Gold Potatoes, cooked and chilled
● 1 onion, cut into 1/8 inch dice
● 3 oz of bacon, cut into brunoise*
● 3 sprigs of fresh thyme, chopped
● 2 sprigs of rosemary, chopped
● 1/2 cup grated Reggiano Parmigiano
● 1/4 cup of parsley cut into chiffonade*
● 3 cloves of garlic, chopped
● olive oil for sauteing
Cut the cooked potatoes into ⅛ inch cubes. In a saute pan, heat the olive oil, add the bacen, let it render for about 5 min, add the onion and garlic, then the potatoes (DO NOT TOUCH THEM ) let them caramelize, once crispy, make a gentle scrape with a metal spatula, to turn them, it will be needed, again, let them “roast” to let the sugars crystalize, once crispy and “dinerrish” toasted, add the fresh chopped and cut herbs, along with the cheese, stir, set aside
Crisp Goat Cheese:
● 6 2oz balls of goat cheese, molded into an ice hockey puck shape
● 1/2 cup chopped almonds
● 1/2 cup chopped corn flakes
● 1/2 cup chopped panko breadcrumbs
● 2 whole eggs, beaten lightly with a fork
● 2 cups of flour
● 3 cups of peanut oil, heated to 300 degrees.
Combine nuts, flakes and breadcrumbs and pour into a blender, pulse for about 30 seconds, pour into a small flat dish, set aside. Make 2 additional dishes with the beaten egg and the flour.
Take each cheese ball, cover in the flour then eggs, back to flour then eggs, and in the end a generous coating of the nut mixture. Set aside, place in a refrigerator.
Heat peanut oil to temperature… drop each cheese serving gently into the oil.. Let them crispen, about 2-3 minutes or until golden brown. Remove, set aside for 30 seconds to drain, then place on top of a spoon full of the hash browned potatoes.
Wednesday’s Steak Tartare
Serves 4
The “Uncooked” history of steak Tartare
Three days from now, on this upcoming Wednesday, the request of making a traditional “Steak Tartare” was handed to me after a fabulous lunch conversation about “Old Miami” and trust me, memories had lots of stories. Besides the changed landscape from “Old” #305, Landmark restaurants, and its classical concepts, led to thoughts and desires for the “once had”
Before cooks started to make an attempt to reinvent the wheel, the restaurant scene was mostly occupied by concept restaurants. Menus were created by proud immigrants who wanted to share and make a living by showcasing their heritage. Other concepts concentrated on history and certain food groups. But one classic that remains somewhat “alone” is “Steak Tartare.” It’s a French word, which has been in use since the 13th century, and refers to the “Tartars” (The Turco – Mongol people of C. Asia). The term has two meanings in the kitchen. One being the “Steak Tartare,” raw marinated meat, and second, the popular mayonnaise-based sauce, also known as a Remoulade. Mainly because it touches cuisines around the globe. Marinating raw meat can be found in almost all cultures. The dishes are first eaten, usually by the one(s) who controlled the food chain.
Once fresh protein had found its way to the butcher’s worktable. And the butcher had done his magic and separated the leanest cuts. Other carvings found its way into other recipes that primarily concentrated on preserving, or other traditional preparations. Few cultures celebrate their heritage around food as much as the Asian territories. A tale is that the founder of the “Shang Dynasty” 1800 years BC. Had a prime minister, who originally was a cook, and with his culinary “Know How” gained popularity with the king. In charge of the king’s staff, in all 4000… 2271 had to do with food and wine, out of those, 162 was in charge of menu writing, composing and arranging for all affairs where food and drink was present. 342 cooks were in charge of seafood preparations, 70 meat professionals, and 256 general cooks. 110 individuals nurtured the “Sommelier” label as their profession, and commanded over 340 wine keepers; 62 were in charge of curing and salting, in other words in charge of preserving. And 94 were overseeing the task of proper temperature control.
Many “Typical” cooking methods was already in use at the time; steaming, grilling, curing and pickling but the simple preparations of seasoning raw meat, was fairly new and uncommon as fresh meat was a luxury. It is written that meat from a fresh butchered young bull, free of fat and senue, is to be cut into small pieces, then marinated from one morning to the next in good wine, then eaten raw, garnished with pickles and prune juice. Sounds familiar?
Auguste Escoffier, writes and refers to “Beefsteak Americaine.” Beef is cut into small cubes free from fat and senue, seasoned with salt and pepper, garnished with a raw egg yolk, capers, chopped onion and parsley.
Ingredients:
● 1 tablespoon Dijon Mustard
● 3 oil-packed anchovy filets, minced
● 2 tablespoon capers, chopped
● 3 large egg yolks
● 3/4 lbs beef top round, clear of fat and sinew, (tenderloin can be used as well) finely diced
● 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
● 2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley
● 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
● 1 splash of Worcestershire sauce
● Kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper
● toasted baguette and French fries
In a chilled mixing bowl, mix the mustard, anchovies and capers. With a fork or the back of a spoon, mash until evenly combined. Mix in the egg yolks. With a large spoon fold in the beef, onion and parsley, olive oil and Worcestershire. Season well with salt and pepper. Serve the tartare spread on the toasted baguette and serve French fries. It is also not uncommon to serve freshly grated horseradish and pickles alongside the Steak Tartare. Scandinavia has a reputation of serving pickled beets and boiled new potatoes.
I hope I have inspired you to have a bit of fun, maybe challenge a dusty pot and pan to return to the stove. Otherwise, call 305-663-2100 for reservations.
Jan Jorgensen, Two Chefs Restaurant
To see more #Miaminews from #Aventura to #Coralgables to #SouthMiami, #Pinecrest, #Palmetto Bay and #Cutler Bay and all throughout #Miamidadecounty go to:
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