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Dear reader…
The following recipes are from years of putting pen to paper, or today, fingertips on a keyboard (1-2 at a time). The recipes are not just a matter of measuring, but also small anecdotes of where, when and why they were cooked. Not all recipes are invented by me, but dishes that were cooked with care, and a passion for the trade. Many of the recipes to follow have seasonal inspirations, as well as daily challenges from awesome people like yourself who were craving a specific dish.
Enjoy….
Oysters “Rockefeller”
Serves 6
Oysters Rockefeller originated in 1889 at the New Orleans restaurant Antoine’s by Jules Alcciatore. Jules created the recipe when he found himself short of escargot.
The dish takes its name from John D. Rockefeller, then the wealthiest American, for its extreme richness. It’s quite simple in fact; Oysters on the half shelf topped with a green mixture and breadcrumbs. The dish has been served numerous times, too many to count, usually in a steak house setting. The recipe has been bastardized with simply creamed spinach and breadcrumbs. In fact it has been debated if spinach even is supposed to be present. I like to do research as much as possible when I cook a classic dish, I will stay as true as possible to a recipe, along with a personal touch if I think it’s deserves my “two cents.” When choosing your oyster, try to find a large oyster, The french “Belon” is a good candidate. It’s large, very plump, salty and briny, all flavors that work extremely well with the green topping and licorice flavors from the Pernod. If Belon oysters are not available then for alternatives ask your fishmonger. I chose Pernod as the licorice flavor needed in the recipe. I suspect he had the classic dish “Escargot Bourguignonne” in mind when he created “Oysters Rockefeller.”
Ingredients:
● 18 large oysters, shucked
● 8 tbsp. butter
● 1/2 cup chopped shallots
● 3 garlic cloves, chopped
● 3 large bunches of Italian flat leaf parsley twisted and torn from the stems
● 3 large celery stalks
● 1 small to medium leek, rinsed clean from dirt
● 1 bunch scallions
● finely grated zest from 1 lemon
● a generous splash of Pernod
● fresh black pepper mill
● 2 cups Panko
The topping:
Finely chop parsley by hand, start with a chiffonade, then continue to chop until a rough medium-chunky consistency is achieved. Transfer the mixture to a mixing bowl.
Slice leek and scallion thin by hand, then chop them the same way as parsley was done.
Transfer to bowl.
Slice celery stalks thinly, then chop as parsley, leek and scallion is done. Transfer to bowl.
NOTE: The reason for the tedious chop by hand is to preserve the fibers within their structure; it will keep each ingredient’s bitter flavors from releasing, and for the structure not to mush.
Can the process be done in a blender? YES, but if you want to be as original as possible, chop/cut by hand.
Can you imagine Jules in 1889 yelling across the kitchen “Someone get me the blender, please!”… I think not.
Next, melt the butter in a small pot, do not let it get color, add shallots and garlic and cook tender for 2-3 minutes, add the Pernod, let the butter mixture temper a few minutes, then pour it over the “green” mixture. With your hand, mix the mixture gently, squeezing the ingredients together to a chunky paste. If you feel the mixture is in need of more moisture in order to keep together, then melt a little butter and add.
Place the opened oysters on a thick bed of salt, set them evenly into the salt preserving its juices. Place a dollop of the “green” mixture on top of each oyster, covering the whole animal.
Sprinkle a generous even layer of breadcrumbs on top of the green mixture.
Place the oyster underneath a medium – hot broiler and cook/brown the oyster.
Serve with lemon wedges.
Potato Rosti, Osetra Caviar
Serves 6
Rosti originated in Switzerland, and while simple to make, it’s extremely rewarding when done correctly. The dish was probably created by mistake or with the idea of using already cooked potatoes, leftover from a previous meal. The cooked potatoes are simply grated, shaped and fried. I like to add a little bacon and onion to the dish, and in this recipe, caviar as a luxurious garnish.
At first glance, you might say that this is just a potato pancake of sorts and hardly revolutionary. Depending on where you’re from, “potato pancakes” can mean latkes, strada or galette. This is all true but I like rosti because the potato is cooked twice, where most other versions will start with raw potato, grated or cut thinly, then shaped and cooked.
Rosti:
● 2 lbs Yukon Gold Potatoes, boiled or baked the day before in their peel, kept cold
● 1 small onion peeled
● egg yolk (optional)
● olive oil, lard or duck fat for cooking
Peel the cooked potatoes and with a box grater, grate the potatoes and onion into a bowl. Mix with your hands squeezing the mixture together into a ball of dough. If the dough seems dry, add an egg yolk or two. In a non-stick skillet add a generous amount of lard, duck fat or oil and bring to medium heat.
On a cutting board, divide the dough into 2-ounce balls, or use a small cookie cutter or ring mold to measure the balls out. Flatten the dough balls with a spatula or shape them in a ring mold (about 1.5 inch in diameter, and 1/8 inch thick). Using a spatula arrange them into the skillet. Do not flip, touch or shake after the saute is started. Allow them to saute to a golden brown, then flip and brown on the reverse side.
Arrange them on a serving tray as an hors d’oeuvre or on a plate as a first course. Three per serving is perfect.
Garnish:
● 1 cup creme fraiche
● 1 cup finely chopped bacon, sauteed to a crisp, or sliced, crispend and chopped
● 1 celery stalk, chopped finely
● 1/4 cup parsley, chopped.
● 3 shallots peeled and chopped finely (brunoise)
I prefer Osetra when it comes to fish eggs. I find the species to be delicious as well as affordable but any good fish eggs will do. Let your budget be your guide.
On top of each Rosti, place a dollop of creme fraiche, a small dollop of shallots, celery, then caviar and a sprinkle of parsley.
Scrambled Eggs, Smoked Salmon
Serves 4
It’s hard to picture lusciously smoked salmon without thinking of Champagne. There are lots of different styles of smoked salmon. Smoke is a prime ingredient, but the cure is the key to the result. Fat content in the fish is also an important factor as is the temperature during smoking. Some prefer the fish to be very rare and fatty—me!— others more cooked and flakey. Over the years, I have met and very much enjoyed smoked salmon from Norway, Chile and Canada, as well as done by myself. But wild smoked Scottish salmon remains my favorite. A piece of toasted pumpernickel or fennel-flecked toast would be a nice addition to the dish.
The best scrambled eggs:
● 6 large eggs
● 1/4 cup heavy whipping cream
● 1 oz of butter
● 1 tablespoon cream cheese
● salt
● cut chives
● white truffle oil
Crack the eggs into a mixing bowl, beat them with a fork until mixed, and add the cream.
Pour egg mixture into the copper bowl on a double boiler along with the butter (if you don’t have a fancy copper version, any double boiler will do; or you can fashion your own by using a metal bowl over a pan of boiling water) and with a rubber spatula gently move eggs about the bowl, as the eggs start to scramble and set, scrape the bowl with the spatula until eggs are cooked to your doneness liking. Stir in the cream cheese and salt to taste.
Arrange smoked salmon on a plate, fanned out in slices, and serve a spoonful of the just-cooked scrambled eggs on top. Sprinkle with freshly cut chives and a small drizzle of white truffle oil–be careful here, the oil is very pungent.
I hope I have inspired you to have a bit of fun, maybe challenge a dusty pot and pan to return to the stove. Otherwise, call 305-663-2100 for reservations.
Jan Jorgensen, Two Chefs Restaurant
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