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Dear reader…
The following recipes are from years of putting pen to paper, or today, fingertips on a keyboard (1-2 at a time). The recipes are not just a matter of measuring, but also small anecdotes of where, when and why they were cooked. Not all recipes are invented by me, but dishes that were cooked with care, and a passion for the trade. Many of the recipes to follow have seasonal inspirations, as well as daily challenges from awesome people like yourself who were craving a specific dish.
Enjoy….
Curried Oyster Stew
Serves 6
This dish can be served soupy or more hearty and stew-like on top of rice, and it always reminds me that “bubbles” and curry are a great match, especially when the main event is oysters. The oysters are easy in this case because they are simply added in the end.
Curries deserve their own chapter, of course. Mine are perhaps more perfumy than many non-Western versions, each reflecting its particular place of origin. The spicy part of any curry–chilies–can be adjusted to taste.
I prefer a pasty curry versus a dry powdery curry. The main “perfume” in curries, cardamom, is extremely aromatic, and works well in the company of celery, apples, mango, pineapple, coconut, plum and pear, just to mention a few. Find your favorite curry in the Asian section in grocery stores, or ethnic specialty stores in your neighborhood or online.
Stew Mise en Place*:
● 36 large shucked oysters
● 1 onion, peeled and cut into brunoise*
● 1/4 cup pancetta* finely diced
● 1/4 cup of curry paste
● 2 apples, firm and tart, Granny Smith, if available, cut into ⅛-inch dice
● 2 celery stalks, cut into brunoise*
● 6 cloves of garlic, sliced thinly
● A bouquet garni* (add 1 cinnamon stick)
● 2 cups unsweetened coconut milk
● 1 cup tomato concasse*
● 1 cup heavy cream
● 1 soup spoon of honey
● 1/4 cup chopped cilantro
In a flat saucepan (as opposed to one with curved sides), saute the onion and garlic with the pancetta, but do not let it brown. Add the curry paste and celery and let the curry “toast” with the onion mixture for about 2 minutes. Add apples and a minute later, add coconut milk and bouquet garni. Bring to a simmer, let cook for 5 minutes then add tomatoes.
Season with salt and pepper. Add heavy cream and honey and simmer for 2 minutes, then taste again. Add oysters, stir, skimming off any foam, then turn off heat and add cilantro.
Serve as a soup or on top of rice for a more filling dish. Regardless, eat with bubbles.
Lobster Bisque*, Splash of Cognac
Serves 6
The first time I actually saw and touched a real lobster was during my Finals in cooking school. That first time–and you never forget your first!– was the classic Lobster a’la Americaine. I was terrified (they are quite prehistoric looking), but actual cooking was always the easiest part of my education. French menu writing was always less interesting. Anyway, I graded out at the maximum.
A TV show at the time showcased a very famous chef, Soren Gericke, an eccentric fellow, but he knew how to cook. He was one of the first Danes to champion Denmark’s foodways (and not just wooden shoes!) long before today’s celebrity chefs. Back then, I knew the old saw about lobster: very expensive, so they needed respect and proper care, usually only to be handled by the upper hierarchy of the kitchen.
This is what I remember, and have perfected (he said modestly!).
Ingredients:
● 1 2lb Maine lobster, live
● 2 carrots, 1 onion, 4 celery stalks cut into mirepoix*
● 1 stick butter
● 1/2 cup basmati rice
● 2 qt chicken stock
● 2 cups white wine
● 1 cup tomato concasse*
● 1 bouquet garni*
● zest of 1 lemon
● pinch of paprika
● pinch of cayenne
● pinch of cumin
● salt and fresh black pepper
● 1/4 cup Cognac, alcohol burned off
● 1/2 cup creme fraiche* 32 percent fat if available
● 2 egg yolks
● ¼ cup heavy cream
Place the lobster on a cutting board, with a large knife cut from the body towards the face, start from the center of the cross found on top of head, insert the knife and then cut through quickly. This will kill the lobster instantly. Gripping the body firmly at the joint, twist then pull off the tail. Pull off the claws, then cut the body in half. Remove the coral from the body and if you’re lucky and roe is present (dark green sack), remove and set aside in a small container.
In a pot melt butter and then saute mirepoix gently for about 10 minutes. Add lobster parts along with the rice, moving ingredients around for 5 minutes. Add the white wine, stir, add tomato, bouquet garni and chicken stock, bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Remove the claws and tail, set them aside to cool to room temperature.
Continue to simmer the soup for 20 minutes, letting the rice thicken it. Then add cayenne, cumin and paprika, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Strain the soup into a different pot, pressing/forcing/squeezing as much pulp and juice thru as possible using a chinois* or cheesecloth. Bring strained soup to a simmer, skim off any scum and taste again for seasoning.
If roe is present, mix it with the egg yolk and cream, then add the creme fraiche, mix well, then stir in the lemon zest. Set aside.
Remove the meat from lobster claws and tail, cut into edible chunks, and divide among 6 soup bowls.
Stir the creme fraiche mixture into the soup, but be sure to do it off the heat. Ladle soup over the lobster meat. Drizzle the Cognac into the soup and serve.
Tartare of Tuna, House Chips, Huancaina*
Serves 4
Raw tuna has been served for ages, whether sliced or chopped, depending upon where in the world it’s served. During my time at Speedo 690, at which the concept was East meets West, fusion before that term was widely used, we relied heavily on soy and other Asian flavors, like avocado, sesame. But because of my commitment to wine-friendly food, the Far East was not the place I looked for inspiration when doing tuna tartare. Asia’s ingredient pantry, so to speak, is more of a challenge when thinking about what wine works well with certain preparations. In fact, I think I served this dish for the first time at an Italian press lunch, because as one can see the ingredients are very much Italian inspired.
Serve with potato chips; crisp and raw always work well together.
Ingredients:
● 8 oz of raw tuna loin, ahi or blue fin, whichever is available; I prefer blue fin
● 3 Idaho or Russet potatoes (I like Idahos because of their longer shape and less sugar)
● 1 oz of white truffle oil
● 1/4 cup basil, cut in a chiffonade*
● 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
● peanut oil for frying (enough for 3 inches in depth of your chosen vessel)
● salt and black pepper
With a sharp knife and a very clean cutting board cut the tuna into a brunoise.*
In a metal bowl mix the tuna with remaining ingredients, season, set aside and keep cold.
Leaving the peel on, slice potatoes using a mandolin; not paper thin but chip thickness. Place potato slices in a pan or large bowl of cold water, rinsing them several times until the water is clear. The starch has to be washed out so the slices can fry crispy and more importantly, remain crisp.
In a large pot heat the peanut oil to about 275-300 degrees. Grab a handful of chips, and pat them dry on a towel or paper towel for a minute. Then gently drop them into the fryer, carefully moving them around with a spoon. Cook until crispy and golden brown, then remove them with a strainer spoon or spider. Drain on a towel, then repeat the process until all chips are done.
Huancaina is a popular component in the Peruvian kitchen, typically served with ceviche. I like the flavor, much like an aioli, but unique, and it works great with the tartare.
Huancaina Sauce:
● 2 aji amarillo* peppers, blanched 3 times in freshwater, skin and seeds removed
● 4 egg yolks
● 2 oz Dijon mustard
● juice from 1 lemon
● zest from 1 lemon
● 3 oz of creamy goat cheese
● 2 cup olive oil
● salt and black pepper
In a blender, puree all ingredients except the olive oil for 30 seconds, then slowly feed in the oil until a mayonnaise-like mixture forms. Keep cold.
Make a tartare serving in a 4-oz mold or ramekin, flip out onto a plate, arrange chips next to tartare, and finish with a dollop of Huancaina on top. The huancaina recipe is generous so leftovers are likely, which can be used for sandwiches. It will keep for a few days in the fridge.
I hope I have inspired you to have a bit of fun, maybe challenge a dusty pot and pan to return to the stove. Otherwise, call 305-663-2100 for reservations.
Jan Jorgensen, Two Chefs Restaurant
