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Dear reader…
The following recipes are from years of putting pen to paper, or today, fingertips on a keyboard (1-2 at a time). The recipes are not just a matter of measuring, but also small anecdotes of where, when and why they were cooked. Not all recipes are invented by me, but dishes that were cooked with care, and a passion for the trade. Many of the recipes to follow have seasonal inspirations, as well as daily challenges from awesome people like yourself who were craving a specific dish.
Enjoy….
Sauteed Celeriac, Brown Butter and Forest Mushrooms
Serves 4
I think it’s appropriate to mention vegetable dishes when Riesling is the choice of drink. I especially like earthy and rich flavors in vegetable only dishes. I use butter in the dish, but if you want to make it a vegan dish, use olive oil instead of butter.
The Celeriac:
● 1 celeriac root/bulb
● garni
● 1 cup mirepoix of carrots, onion and celery
● 1 cup white wine
● 1 stick of butter
● zest from 1 lemon
● 1 oz sherry vinegar
Start a court bouillon with water, wine, bouquet garni and vegetables.
Scrub the celery with a rough brush, under running cold water, making sure all dirt and grime has been removed. Cut four slices 1/2-inch thick, cooking them gently in the court bouillon for 5-6 minutes until tender, then remove from the bouillon and pat them dry.
In a sauté pan, melt the butter, let it froth and become light brown, place the celiac inside the pan, let the celeriac brown lightly, flip them. Do not burn the butter.
Once cooked/browned on both sides, place them each on serving plates, deglaze the pan with sherry vinegar, lemon zest and 1/2 cup of court bouillon. Set aside.
The mushrooms:
I chose the word forest for the mushrooms, only because all mushrooms will qualify for this dish. In the fall and spring when they start to flourish many varieties become available, and I like porcinis/cepes, cremini, chanterelles, morels and oyster, which are fairly small mushrooms that will cook after 3-4 minutes in a pan.
● 1 stick of butter
● 1 finely chopped shallot
● 1 lbs fresh mushrooms of your choice, or a mix
● 1/4 cup chiffonade of celery leaves
● Salt and fresh black pepper
Clean and pat dry the mushrooms, then cut into bite-size pieces if needed (remember they will shrink 20 percent after cooking). In a sauté pan, melt the butter, let it froth and become light brown, add the mushrooms, and sauté until cooked, about 4-5 minutes. Remove them from the pan and add them into a small mixing bowl, with the raw shallot, celery greens, and salt and pepper to taste.
Spoon the mushroom mixture onto the celeriac slices. Spoon the butter sauce from the sauteed celeriac on top of the mushrooms.
Skillet Roasted Wahoo with Potato Gnocchi
Serves 4
Wahoo is one cool fish. I have heard it referred to as the “jaguar of the ocean.” In other words, it’s fast. This speedy work results in a meaty fish, much like swordfish, mackerel and tuna, though it is not oily. The other great thing about wahoo is that it’s almost guaranteed to have been line caught, and not netted. So, whenever it’s available, it will end up in my kitchen.
Serving the fish with potato gnocchi is a popular “set-up” in the restaurant. The nutty flavor of butter-toasted gnocchi, seasoned with bacon, candied onions and brussels sprout leaves, results in a wonderful dish.
The potato gnocchi:
● 2 1/2 lbs of Idaho baking potatoes
● salt
● 1 1/2-2 cups flour
● 2 large eggs
Boil the potatoes in salted water until done (30 minutes). Drain the potatoes well and allow them to cool enough for you to handle. Peel the potatoes while hot. Mill them through a potato ricer onto a baking sheet or tabletop and sprinkle 1 1/2 cups flour over the potatoes. Form a small crater in the mixture and crack in the two eggs, then add the salt.
Using your fingers, combine the ingredients into a dough, knead the dough for a few minutes making sure all ingredients are well mixed. If the dough seems a little wet, add a little flour, then set aside.
Sprinkle the work surface with flour. Roll the dough out with a rolling pin to about 1/2-inch thickness. Cut the dough into 1/2-inch ribbons. Roll each ribbon into a long log and cut each log into 1-inch pieces.
Cook them in salted, boiling water until they float, about 3-4 minutes. Remove them as they are done with a slotted spoon and set aside.
The wahoo:
● 4 6-8-oz wahoo steaks, skin on, and skin scored in a diamond pattern
● olive oil
● 2 sprigs of rosemary
● 2 garlic cloves, smashed
● 1/4 stick of butter
● 1 lemon cut into pieces
Add olive oil to a medium-hot skillet, place the wahoo skin side down, letting the skin brown/caramelize for 4-5 minutes. Turn the fish to brown the bottom, if the wahoo is cut from a thick filet. Return to the skin side, lower heat to medium.
Add butter, garlic, rosemary and lemon, let the butter froth. With a soup spoon, spoon the flavored butter over the fish, letting the fish sauté about 5 minutes more. Insert a wooden skewer into the center, remove, and with your lips feel the temperature of the fish’s center. If it’s cold, let the fish cook a bit more, maybe transfer it to an oven for a few minutes. If it’s warm, the fish is done.
Cook the gnocchi set-up:
● 3 cups of finished potato gnocchi
● 2 cups of brussels sprout leaves
● 3 shallots, finely diced
● 4 oz of finely diced bacon
● 6 garlic cloves, sliced
● 1/4 stick of butter
● 2 oz of olive oil
● salt and pepper
● 1/4 cup chopped parsley
● 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
In a non-stick skillet, heat the olive oil, then add the shallots, garlic and bacon, letting the mixture sauté for 3 minutes. Add the gnocchi, letting them sauté and reach golden color, 4-5 minutes; move them around so they don’t stick. Add the butter and let it froth. Add brussels sprout leaves and cook for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and add parsley and the cheese, season with salt and pepper.
On a dinner plate, spoon a serving of gnocchi, place the wahoo on top, drizzle with EVOO and serve fresh lemon wedges on the side.
Lamb Loin, English Peas, Goat Cheese, Hazelnuts
Serves 6
I came up with this dish to serve at a trade lunch. The presenter was a big red Burgundy fan. Lamb, of course, is a no-brainer as practically any—or maybe all—styles of Pinot work with it on some level. The dish also has the added benefit of being fairly easy to prepare, making it ideal for a large dinner party.
That said, there are a number of small steps that need to be done before final cooking and assembly.
Ingredients:
● 3 racks of lamb (14 to 16 oz each)
● 2 cups of English peas (use frozen if fresh is not available)
● pad of butter
● 1/2 cup hazelnuts shelled and roughly chopped
● 3 sprigs fresh mint
● zest from 1 lemon
● olive oil
● salt and pepper
● 1 cup aged goat cheese
Cut lamb loin off the rack, set aside.
Cook peas in salted water until tender (5 minutes).
Toast hazelnuts in a 325-degree oven until aromas are released (5 minutes).
Crumble the goat cheese, set aside.
Cut mint leaves into chiffonade.
Season the lamb with salt and pepper. In a hot pan (I’m a big fan of cast iron when pan-roasting meat), add olive oil. Gently place the loins next to but not touching each other, working toward the middle of the pan. Brown the meat on all sides to an amber color. Reduce the heat by about a third and continue to roast the loins for another 5-6 minutes.
Remove from heat and let rest for about 10 minutes turning the loins every 3 minutes to help the juices distribute evenly.
After cooking the peas, transfer them to a skillet with the pad of butter, let them simmer, then crush them with a fork, turn off the heat, add the hazelnuts, goat cheese, lemon zest and mint, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Spoon the pea mixture onto 6 plates, slice the lamb loins and arrange on top of peas, half a loin per person. Spoon a little of the pea juice left in the pan over the lamb.
I hope I have inspired you to have a bit of fun, maybe challenge a dusty pot and pan to return to the stove. Otherwise, call 305-663-2100 for reservations.
Jan Jorgensen, Two Chefs Restaurant
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