|
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready...
|
Dear reader…
The following recipes are from years of putting pen to paper, or today, fingertips on a keyboard (1-2 at a time). The recipes are not just a matter of measuring, but also small anecdotes of where, when and why they were cooked. Not all recipes are invented by me, but dishes that were cooked with care, and a passion for the trade. Many of the recipes to follow have seasonal inspirations, as well as daily challenges from awesome people like yourself who were craving a specific dish.
Enjoy….
Pumpkin Ravioli with Smoked Ham Hock Broth
Serves 6
I credit this dish to Bradley Ogden, a chef who influenced what “California” cuisine evolved into during the late 1980s and early 1990s. His place was the Lark Creek Inn, just north of San Francisco. I had just moved to the Bay area, I was 25 and had just landed a job at Speedo 69.
And a Sunday brunch visit introduced me to a ravioli dish that kind of got stuck in my mind. Remember that my association to Speedo 690 was also in the kitchen, but our kitchen profile was “East meets West.”
Even though a large part of the eastern cuisine is many times soup/brothy related/orientated.
It was the broth that made an impact on me. The rich flavors of smoky ham hock and its natural fat flavoring, and the silky greens made my day. I have used these flavors in different combinations many times.
Ravioli filling:
● 1 small pumpkin, quartered, seeds removed
● 1 rosemary sprig
● 1 sage sprig
● juice of 1 lemon
● 1/4 cup honey
● 1 oz EVOO
● pinch of nutmeg
Place the pumpkin quarters in a roasting pan, add rosemary and drizzle the honey, lemon juice and olive oil over. Cover with aluminum foil and bake/roast in a 300 degree oven for about 45 minutes until squash is fully cooked.
Let the squash come to room temperature leaving the foil on. When cooled down, spoon and scrape the pumpkin meat into a bowl, and with a spatula, scrape the juices from the roasted skins into the squash meat, mix thoroughly with a spoon or whisk, and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Set aside in the fridge for 1 hour.
Make the ravioli:
● 40 wonton wrappers
● 2 whole eggs, beat
Separate the wrappers, lining them up in two rows, 20 in each row. Brush the egg gently onto the wrappers, from center out. Place one dollop of the filling in the middle of the wrapper. (Be generous, but leave a border around the filling). Lay the other wrapper on top of the filling. Crimp the sides of the ravioli, using your thumb and index finger, working your way around the entire ravioli, so the two sides are thoroughly sealed. Finish with the remaining pasta, dusting each ravioli with corn meal once they’re assembled. Place on an ungreased cookie sheet. Set aside.
Ham hock broth:
● 2 smoked ham hocks
● 2 quarts of rich chicken stock
● 4 oz dark mushroom-soy sauce
● 3 cups of mirepoix
● 1 bouquet garni
● 1 medium leek, cut into chunks
● 2 lbs spinach
● peel/rind from 1 lemon
● parmesan rind if available, otherwise rind from any hard cheese
● EVOO
In a pot add chicken broth, ham hocks, mirepoix and bouquet garni, cover and simmer for 1-1 1/2 hours. Remove the ham hocks and peel the meat off them.
Add the remaining ingredients and let the broth cook for another 15 minutes to benefit from the leeks, lemon rind and parmesan.
Strain the broth into a new pot, add the hock meat, bring the broth to a simmer.
Start a large pot with water on high heat. When the water is boiling, gently drop the raviolis into the pot. Cook the raviolis for a minute after the water has returned to a boil.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the raviolis to the broth, move the raviolis lightly around, being careful not to break them. Let the broth reach a light boil. Remove from heat and arrange the ravioli in 6 bowls, add the spinach to the broth, mix gently, then ladle over the spinach and broth. Drizzle EVOO on top. Serve immediately.
Roasted Salsify with Endives and Crisp Goat Cheese
Serves 4
I have done this dish many times, and although it’s hearty and rich, it makes a good lunch if you’re looking for something lighter than animal protein. The roasting of the tuber and the caramelized bitter flavors from the endive supplies a great contrast to the tangy goat cheese. Toss the veggies with a splash of EVOO and grated lemon zest to brighten it up.
Because goat cheese is so unique in flavor and texture, I like to coat a disk with ground hazelnuts, which creates very “nutty” flavors which, of course, equals umami.
Ingredients:
● 2 heads of Belgian endives
● 4 10-inch tubers of salsify, peeled and kept in water with a splash of lemon
● 1 onion, peeled
● zest from 1 lemon
● EVOO
● salt and pepper
● 4 garlic cloves, sliced roughly
● tiny romaine hearts from 2 romaine head
Cut the salsify into 2-inch pieces, making your cut on the bias. Cut the onion in half, lengthwise and then into wedges. Quarter the endives. Trim the core a bit if needed, but not all as a little is needed to keep the leaves from falling apart.
Toss all ingredients together, add them to a roasting pan (the smallest one that will fit all of the ingredients in a single layer but not so large that you can see much of the bottom of the pan) and cover the “salad” with aluminum foil.
Roast in a preheated oven at 325 for 15-20 minutes. Remove the foil and lightly cook the salad for an additional 2-3 minutes, the endives might crispen a little, but they will soften once salad is tossed again. Add the romaine hearts and incorporate into the endive and salsify mix.
Crisp Goat Cheese:
● 4 2-oz balls of goat cheese, molded into a hockey puck-like shape
● 1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts
● 1/2 cup chopped corn flakes
● 1/2 cup chopped panko bread crumbs
● 2 whole eggs, beaten lightly with a fork
● 2 cups of flour
● 3 cups of peanut oil, heated to 300 degrees
Put the flour and beaten eggs in two separate flat dishes.
Combine nuts, flakes and breadcrumbs and add into a blender, pulsing for about 30 seconds. Pour into a small flat dish, set aside.
Take each cheese ball, cover in the flour then eggs, back to flour then eggs, and finally, a generous coating of the nut mixture. Set aside, and when finished with all four, place in a refrigerator.
Heat peanut oil to temperature, then gently place each cheese serving into oil. Let them crispen, about 2-3 minutes or until golden brown. Remove, set aside for 30 seconds to drain, then place on top of a spoonful of the salsify mixture.
Arrange the salad onto 4 plates, then add the crisp goat cheese on top.
Ravioli with Braised Lamb and Garlic Cream
Serves 6
I will start saying right off the get go, that producing braised lamb for JUST a ravioli recipe is silly unless the guest count is very high. What I like to share is a “kick ass” recipe that has been received and created many accolades over the years. I typically would make/serve it when a few lamb shanks needed to leave the menu, or if I had braised lamb available.
I sometimes braise a couple of boneless lamb legs to make different dishes, maybe a “bolognaise.” a stew or something else, but ravioli always wins.
If possible, I like to use the braised vegetables that accompany the cooking process to help the ravioli mixture/filling.
Ravioli mixture:
● 3 cups of braised lamb meat
● 1 whole carrot, from the braisings
● 1 onion, from the braisings
● 2 stalks of celery, from the braisings
● 4 cloves of garlic, from the braisings
● 1/2 cup goat cheese
● 1 egg yolk
● 1/2 cup grated reggiano
● 1/4 cup chopped parsley
Literally, chop/chunk the above mentioned ingredients together, to create a chunky mix.
Check for salt and pepper. Set aside.
Make the ravioli:
● 40 wonton wrappers
● 2 whole eggs beaten
Separate the wrappers, lining them up in two rows, 20 in each row. Brush the egg gently onto the wrappers, from center out. Place one dollop of the filling in the middle of the wrapper. (Be generous, but leave a border around the filling). Lay the other wrapper on top of the filling. Crimp the sides of the ravioli, using your thumb and index finger, working your way around the entire ravioli, so the two sides are thoroughly sealed.
Finish with the remaining pasta, dusting each ravioli with corn meal as they’re finished.
Place on an ungreased cookie sheet. Set aside.
Start a large pot with water. When the water is boiling, gently drop the raviolis into the pot.
Cook the raviolis for a minute after the water has returned to a boil. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the raviolis to the serving plates, then ladle over the garlic cream. Drizzle EVOO on top and chopped parsley. Serve immediately.
The Garlic Cream:
● 2 cups of rich chicken stock
● 1 cup of heavy cream
● 1/2 cup creamy goat cheese
● 1/2 cup of garlic cloves
● olive oil
● bouquet garni
● peel from 1 lemon
● EVOO
● chopped Parsley
The garlic cream should be light and airy. I like to thicken the sauce a little with a liaison [egg yolks and cream].
Bring all ingredients together in a pot, bring them/it to a simmer, cook for 15 minutes.
Strain the sauce, bring to a light simmer, turn off the heat, then stir in the liaison, season with salt and pepper if needed
Liaison:
● 1/2 cup cream
● 3 egg yolks
Whisk the two together and add/incorporate when needed.
I hope I have inspired you to have a bit of fun, maybe challenge a dusty pot and pan to return to the stove. Otherwise, call 305-663-2100 for reservations.
Jan Jorgensen, Two Chefs Restaurant
ABOUT US:
For more Miami community news, look no further than Miami Community Newspapers. This Miami online group of newspapers covers a variety of topics about the local community and beyond. Miami’s Community Newspapers offers daily news, online resources, podcasts and other multimedia content to keep readers informed. With topics ranging from local news to community events, Miami’s Community Newspapers is the ideal source for staying up to date with the latest news and happenings in the area.
This family-owned media company publishes more than a dozen neighborhood publications, magazines, special sections on their websites, newsletters, as well as distributing them in print throughout Miami Dade County from Aventura, Sunny Isles Beach, Miami Beach, Coral Gables, Brickell, Coconut Grove, Pinecrest, South Miami, Kendall, Palmetto Bay, Cutler Bay and Homestead. Each online publication and print editions provide comprehensive coverage of local news, events, business updates, lifestyle features, and local initiatives within its respective community.
Additionally, the newspaper has exclusive Miami community podcasts, providing listeners with an in-depth look into Miami’s culture. Whether you’re looking for local Miami news, or podcasts, Miami’s Community Newspapers has you covered. For more information, be sure to check out: https://communitynewspapers.com.
If you have any questions, feel free to email Michael@communitynewspapers.com or Grant@communitynewspapers.com.
