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Dear reader…
The following recipes are from years of putting pen to paper, or today, fingertips on a keyboard (1-2 at a time). The recipes are not just a matter of measuring, but also small anecdotes of where, when and why they were cooked. Not all recipes are invented by me, but dishes that were cooked with care, and a passion for the trade. Many of the recipes to follow have seasonal inspirations, as well as daily challenges from awesome people like yourself who were craving a specific dish.
Enjoy….
Avocado, Baby Artichokes and Chicken Fried Sweetbreads
Serves 6
This combination of textures and flavors was created for a brunch menu. The creaminess of the avocado, the soft artichokes and the crisp sweetbreads practically scream for bubbles, particularly the French version, Champagne. Your mise en place is crucial here because three distinct components need to come together once finished.
It’s important that all ingredients are ready to go and all three components are finished before assembly.
Ingredients:
● 3 ripe avocados (I like my backyard avocados, but Hass are more readily available)
● a squirt of lemon juice
● a splash of EVOO
● salt and black pepper
Cut avocados in 1/2, remove the pit, with a large spoon scoop out the avocado, gently cut into 1/4-inch pieces. Season with lemon, oil, salt and pepper, and set aside.
Ingredients:
● 2 cups of cooked baby artichokes (see note below)
● 2 soup spoons of cornstarch
● salt and pepper
● pinch of nutmeg
● pinch of paprika
● 2 cups of sweetbread nuggets (see note below)
● 1 cup flour
Note:
Artichokes can be bought or simply cleaned, and braised in a court bouillon and cut in half and julienned, and set aside.
Sweetbreads are not a household item, but they are delicious. I like to use a poached sweetbread, after first rinsing them well in water. After poaching, separate into nuggets.
Dredge them in seasoned flour and deep fry them or fry in a cast iron skillet for about 5 minutes. Drain them on paper towels.
Tartare of Tuna, House Chips, Huancaina
Serves 4
Raw tuna has been served for ages, whether sliced, diced or chopped, depending upon where in the world it’s served. During my time at Speedo 690, at which the concept was East meets West, fusion before that term was widely used, we relied heavily on soy and other Asian flavors, like avocado, sesame. But because of my commitment to wine-friendly food, the Far East was not the place I looked for inspiration when doing tuna tartare. Asia’s ingredient pantry, so to speak, is more of a challenge when thinking about what wine works well with certain preparations. In fact, I think I served this dish for the first time at an Italian press lunch, because as one can see the ingredients are very much Italian inspired.
Serve with potato chips; crisp and raw always work well together.
Ingredients:
● 8 oz of raw tuna loin, ahi or blue fin, whichever is available; I prefer blue fin
● 3 Idaho or Russet potatoes (I like Idahos because of their longer shape and less sugar)
● 1 oz of white truffle oil
● 1/4 cup basil, cut in a chiffonade
● 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
● peanut oil for frying (enough for 3 inches in depth of your chosen vessel)
● salt and black pepper
With a sharp knife and a very clean cutting board cut the tuna into a brunoise. In a metal bowl mix the tuna with remaining ingredients, season, set aside and keep cold.
Leaving the peel on, slice potatoes using a mandolin; not paper thin but chip thickness. Place potato slices in a pan or large bowl of cold water, rinsing them several times until the water is clear. The starch has to be washed out so the slices can fry crispy and more importantly, remain crisp.
In a large pot heat the peanut oil to about 275-300 degrees. Grab a handful of chips, and pat them dry on a towel or paper towel for a minute. Then gently drop them into the fryer, carefully moving them around with a spoon. Cook until crispy and golden brown, then remove them with a strainer spoon or spider. Drain on a towel, then repeat the process until all chips are done.
Huancaina is a popular component in the Peruvian kitchen, typically served with ceviche. I like the flavor, much like an aioli, but unique, and it works great with the tartare.
Huancaina Sauce:
● 2 aji amarillo peppers, blanched 3 times in freshwater, skin and seeds removed
● 4 egg yolks
● 2 oz Dijon mustard
● juice from 1 lemon
● zest from 1 lemon
● 3 oz of creamy goat cheese
● 2 cup olive oil
● salt and black pepper
In a blender, puree all ingredients except the olive oil for 30 seconds, then slowly feed in the oil until a mayonnaise-like mixture forms. Keep cold.
Make a tartare serving in a 4-oz mold or ramekin, flip out onto a plate, arrange chips next to tartare, and finish with a dollop of Huancaina on top. The Huancaina recipe is generous so leftovers are likely, which can be used for sandwiches. It will keep for a few days in the fridge.
Duck Confit Quesadilla, Roasted Lime Creme Fraiche
Serves 6
This dish originated at San Francisco’s Speedo 690. Flour tortillas were ubiquitous in many California households thanks to the prevalence of Latin American cultural influences. Speedo 690 (named for an old carburetor factory located at 690 Van Ness Boulevard) was the first restaurant of its kind with its East meets West fusion concept before that term was even coined. That concept has become more refined, of course, but everything has to start somewhere. I’m proud of being a pioneer on the front burner line for that style of cooking. The dish has flavor components that today would be labeled Mexican—cilantro, jalapeño, lime, poblanos, tortillas, etc. Duck confit and creme fraiche are of French origin. East meets West.
Ingredients:
● 12 6-inch flour tortillas
● 3 cups aged yellow cheddar cheese, grated
● 3 cups picked and shredded duck confit
● olive oil for sautéing
Lay out 6 tortillas on a counter, divide the cheese among the tortillas, then do the same with the duck confit. Place another tortilla on top of the filling and gently press down to seal what is now technically a quesadilla.
Add a generous amount of olive oil to an 8-inch skillet, bring the pan to medium heat, and once hot, place a quesadilla gently into the hot oil. Press down with a large spatula turning the quesadilla around in the pan so any melted cheese running out from it will become golden brown and crusty. Cook until crisp and golden brown on the bottom, gently flip, and do the same on the other side. Place the cooked quesadilla on a sheet tray and repeat the process with remaining quesadillas.
Roasted Lime Creme Fraiche:
● 2 cups Creme Fraiche
● 3 limes, quartered
● 1 poblano pepper, seeds removed, cut into chunks
● 1 jalapeno pepper, seeds removed, cut into pieces
● 2 shallots, peeled and cut in half
● 2 garlic cloves, peeled
● 1 soup spoon of honey
● 1 bunch cilantro
● pinch ground cumin
● 1/4 cup olive oil
● salt and black pepper
Toss lime, peppers, shallots and garlic in a bowl with the olive oil, then transfer to a small roasting pan. Cover with aluminum foil and roast in the oven at 325 for 30 minutes. Let mixture cool to room temperature. Transfer roasted ingredients to a blender. Add half of the cilantro bunch, honey and cumin and blend the mixture until smooth. Add creme fraiche, salt and pepper to taste. Pulse once or twice to combine but not more than necessary so as to not overprocess.
Reheat the cooked quesadillas in a hot oven, cut them into wedges, serve with sauce on the side. Pick large sprigs from the remaining cilantro and arrange on top of cut quesadilla, serve either family style or individual serving plates.
Glazed Sea Scallops in Hazelnut Custard
Serves 4
Scallops have always signaled softly smooth pleasure to the waiting palate, and regardless of the shape or form served, always win plaudits. I sometimes like to use nuts when I work with seafood because they bring a very earthy, umami quality to a dish whether in the form of pesto or in this case, pureed hazelnuts—sort of a “pesto” without the olive oil, garlic and basil or other herb.
Ingredients:
● 16 sea scallops, cut ¼-inch thick
● 4 egg yolks
● 1 cup sour cream
● 1 cup heavy cream
● juice 1/2 lemon
● 1/4 cup hazelnuts, very finely chopped
● pinch nutmeg
● salt and pepper to taste
First toast the hazelnuts in the oven, then roll them in a strainer to remove excess peel. Finely chop them in a food processor.
Preheat the broiler to high. Arrange slices of scallops (four scallops per serving, sliced) on four oven-proof plates.
Using an electric hand blender, beat the yolks, sour cream, heavy cream, lemon juice, hazelnuts, nutmeg and salt and pepper in a medium bowl until creamy. Divide the mixture equally over the scallop slices. Place the plates about 1 inch from the broiler and broil until the custard has turned golden brown. Serve immediately. The plates will be hot, so serve them on top of chargers.
I hope I have inspired you to have a bit of fun, maybe challenge a dusty pot and pan to return to the stove. Otherwise, call 305-663-2100 for reservations.
Jan Jorgensen, Two Chefs Restaurant
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