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Dear reader…
The following recipes are from years of putting pen to paper, or today, fingertips on a keyboard (1-2 at a time). The recipes are not just a matter of measuring, but also small anecdotes of where, when and why they were cooked. Not all recipes are invented by me, but dishes that were cooked with care, and a passion for the trade. Many of the recipes to follow have seasonal inspirations, as well as daily challenges from awesome people like yourself who were craving a specific dish.
Enjoy….
Whole Roasted Chicken
Serves 2-3
Roast chicken rules. If you ask just about anyone, they will tell you that nothing beats a beautifully roasted chicken. Then there is the question of the egg. Not the order of its appearance but how important eggs are to cooking. For me, eggs allow a universe of possibilities in the kitchen. You’ll note that there are actually more egg-centric recipes in this book than actual chicken recipes—at last count, anyway. That said, a cookbook without a roast chicken recipe would be incomplete, particularly in light of our focus on wine and food together.
The skin is the most important part of a roast chicken. The flesh of chicken, regardless of how it is cooked, is relatively bland, though it’s certainly true that the dark meat parts have more inherent flavor. The hard part is not just getting the skin perfectly crisp, but being able to carve the finished bird without destroying the skin and losing the precious juices. If you don’t have a very sharp knife, please move on to another recipe!
The choice of the bird is important. There are actually a bunch of different birds available, and all are not suited for a proper roasting. You want one that is 3 1/2 to 4 pounds. Make sure you thoroughly dry the bird inside and out as moisture promotes steaming. Truss the bird so the wing bones and legs are hugging the breast. (There are literally thousands of trussing videos out there if you’re not sure how to do this fairly basic but essential task.)
Preheat the oven to 400. My preferred cooking vessel is a cast iron skillet. I think it promotes crisper skin. Generously salt the bird inside and out. Place it in a suitably sized skillet breast side up and put in the oven. Roast until the skin has turned lightly golden-brown, and then lower the heat to 325. Roast for another 50-60 minutes. Test by feeling the thighs. They should feel soft (use an instant-read thermometer, if you prefer). And that’s all there is to it.
However, there are lots of additions that can be made. You can add fresh herbs and lemon in the cavity. You can roast the bird on top of a mirepoix. You can loosen the skin of the breasts (carefully so they don’t tear) and rub butter on them or even bacon. But the key to getting the skin super crispy is to allow the skin’s fat to render out slowly. Adding butter or bacon will certainly add flavor but they also will create more moisture which will sort of “boil” in the space between the loosened skin and the meat. You could, however, smear a little butter and scatter some chopped herbs over the breast 10 minutes before the roasting is done without doing much harm.
Kitchen Wisdom:
Allow the bird to rest for 10-15 minutes before carving (there are just as many videos out there demonstrating how to properly perform this task, one that is not complicated but must be done correctly so as to not tear the bird into jagged pieces) so the juices can redistribute. Pick the carcass free of the many tasty nuggets remaining before you discard it.
What to drink:
The default with roast chicken is Chardonnay. And there’s nothing wrong with that.
However, we think that Syrah’s combination of earthiness, fruit and freshness are just the thing to accompany your lovely bird. A lighter style would be best as the chicken’s flavor profile is not big. A basic villages-level wine from the Northern Rhône would work well.
Calves Liver, Granny Smith Apples and Bacon
Serves 4
I must admit, this one nearly slipped my mind. But Syrah/Shiraz loves this form of liver for some reason. I have done calves liver as a big roast once—it sounds odd but it is totally doable. Cooked individually, however, you would clean the liver, then cut it into 1-inch or so slices. I like thick slices because it’s easier to control the cooking temperature. Very thin slices go from done to overcooked very quickly so it’s a challenge to get the timing right.
Typically, liver is served with something sweet, not sugary sweet but fruity sweet, like caramelized fruit or a reduction. Here, the sautéed onions and apples are a nice foil to the liver steaks. The addition of the crispy bacon just takes the dish to another level.
Ingredients:
● 4 calves liver steaks, cut 1 inch thick, about 10-12 oz each
● olive oil for sautéing
● 1 cup flour mixed with 1 tablespoon of salt
● 1/2 stick butter for sautéing
Preheat two sauté pans until medium hot, then add olive oil. Dredge the calf liver steaks in the flour mixture once oil is hot, then add them to the pans. Cook the steaks until golden brown, 4-5 minutes. Divide the butter between the pans (lower heat if needed), flip the steaks with a spatula, and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Liver steaks are now at medium done in temperature, so turn off the heat, remove the steaks and place on a serving plate. Top with spoonfuls of the apple mixture and slices of bacon
For the apples:
It can be debated whether the apples should be permitted to cook into mush or left somewhat stew-like, but I lean toward the latter because this allows them to retain some texture and keep a bit of acid while releasing sugars. Granny Smith apples are perfect for this task.
● 1 onion, cut in half and sliced into 1/8-inch strips
● 3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, quartered, core removed
● zest from 1 lemon
● juice from 1 lemon
● 1 stick of cinnamon
● 1/2 stick of butter
● 1 oz honey
● 1/2 cup rich veal stock
● salt and pepper
In a skillet, sauté the onions in the butter for 5 minutes, but do not let the butter brown or burn (a little color is OK). Quarter the apple then cut into 1/2-inch chunks. Add to the onions, along with the cinnamon and lemon zest, and cook for 3-4 minutes until the apples start to look tender. Add lemon juice, honey and veal stock, simmer for 2 minutes. Remove cinnamon, season with salt and pepper, and set aside.
The bacon:
I like thinly sliced bacon that is sautéed until crisp for dishes like this. I’m looking for the smoke, not more sweetness. Some bacons can be a bit too sweet because of their brine.
18 thin slices of bacon
Lay out the bacon on a sheet tray and bake them in an oven at 300 until brown and crispy.
Kitchen Wisdom:
If the liver is too big to make 1-inch slices, then cut it through the middle, and cut the slices from each half.
What to drink:
Match the apple/onion mixture with a New World Syrah from Washington, California or Australia but try to avoid highish-alcohol versions.
Camembert Frit
Serves 4
Camembert, Brie’s bigger brother, is terrific when fried crisp, and is a great way to end a meal. It can also be served as part of lunch.
This is a dish that can be served early or late. If served for lunch, perhaps accompany it with roasted asparagus or root vegetables. If it’s the finishing touch after dinner, then toast would be appropriate.
It’s customary to spoon on a dollop of blackberry jam to add a little sweetness to the dish if you’re so inclined. Or leave the jam out to keep it entirely savory. Camembert does have a unique flavor, which intensifies a bit when served warm.
Ingredients:
● 4 4-oz Camembert servings
● 3 eggs, beaten
● 2 cups flour
● 1/2 cup cornstarch
● 1 cup almonds
● 3 cups panko or other breadcrumbs
Prepare three pans: one for the beaten egg; one for the flour and cornstarch; in a blender, grind panko crumbs and almond until fine for the third.
Step 1. Soak the Camembert in the egg wash, then cover the cheese with the flour mixture, return the Camembert to the egg, finish by applying the breadcrumb mixture to the cheese. Repeat with the three other pieces of cheese, setting each aside after completing each process. Make sure the cheese is thoroughly coated each time. There can be no uncovered surfaces on the cheese, with the egg part being the most important step as it is the glue for the dry steps. Refrigerate the cheese once breaded.
Unconventional blackberry jam:
Usually a jam will use granulated sugar to develop its sweetness. I like to use the sweetness from different food groups when making “sweet” food, simply to make sure that the sweetness is natural and not just sugary.
● 3 cups fresh blackberries (overripe, if possible)
● 1/2 cup white pearl onions, peeled and quartered
● 1/2 stick butter
● 1 cup rich veal stock, reduced to 1/4 cup
● zest of 1 lemon
● 1 cinnamon stick
In a small pot, melt the butter, but do not let it take on color, then add the pearl onions and simmer them on low heat until lightly caramelized. Add the blackberries, lemon zest and cinnamon, and let the mixture stew into a tight, not watery, sauce. Once concentrated, add the reduced veal stock, bring to a simmer, and let it cook for a few minutes, adding maybe a small sprinkle of salt and pepper.
Prepare a pot with hot peanut oil, bring the temperature to 325. Gently place the breaded Camembert into the hot oil, let it fry to a golden crisp color, remove from the hot oil and drain on a paper towel.
Serve on a piece of toast or with vegetables as mentioned before.
Kitchen Wisdom:
Camembert is often available in 4-oz triangles, but a small wheel can also be cut into servings. If doing this, freeze the cheese before the breading and coating steps take place.
What to drink:
If you skip the jam, then essentially any Syrah style will do. If adding the jam, the Washington style works best. It has the backbone that lower-acid New World versions don’t but also a nice fruit-forward ripeness that mimics the jam. If you’re in celebration mode, Côte-Rôtie would be an even better match.
I hope I have inspired you to have a bit of fun, maybe challenge a dusty pot and pan to return to the stove. Otherwise, call 305-663-2100 for reservations.
Jan Jorgensen
Two Chefs Restaurant
8287 S Dixie Hwy, Miami, FL 33143
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