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Dear reader…
The following recipes are from years of putting pen to paper, or today, fingertips on a keyboard (1-2 at a time). The recipes are not just a matter of measuring, but also small anecdotes of where, when and why they were cooked. Not all recipes are invented by me, but dishes that were cooked with care, and a passion for the trade. Many of the recipes to follow have seasonal inspirations, as well as daily challenges from awesome people like yourself who were craving a specific dish.
Enjoy….
Ravioli with Braised Lamb and Garlic Cream
Serves 6
Producing braised lamb simply to use in a ravioli recipe is really too much work unless the guest count is very high. It’s really a recipe of opportunity. I usually make it only when I have leftover lamb shanks or leg of lamb available. I sometimes braise a couple of boneless lamb legs to make different dishes, maybe a bolognese-type sauce, a stew, or something else, but ravioli is always my choice if I’m going to the trouble. If possible, I like to use the braised vegetables that accompany the cooking process to help fill out the stuffing mixture. Note that we didn’t include the braising recipe for the lamb. It is a very basic technique. Refer to the my book for more detail.
Ravioli mixture:
● 3 cups of braised lamb meat
● 1 whole carrot, from the braising liquid
● 1 onion, from the braising liquid
● 2 stalks of celery, from the braising liquid
● 4 cloves of garlic, from the braising liquid
● 1/2 cup goat cheese
● 1 egg yolk
● 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
● 1/4 cup chopped parsley
Roughly chop up the above mentioned ingredients together to create a chunky mix. Check for seasoning. Set aside.
Make the ravioli:
● 40 wonton wrappers
● 2 whole eggs, beaten
Separate the wrappers, lining them up in two rows, 20 in each row. Brush the egg gently onto the wrappers, from center out. Place one dollop of the filling in the middle of the wrapper. (Be generous, but leave a border around the filling.) Lay the other wrapper on top of the filling. Crimp the sides of the ravioli, using your thumb and index finger, working your way around the entire ravioli, so the two sides are thoroughly sealed. Finish with the remaining pasta, dusting each ravioli with corn meal as they’re finished. Place on an ungreased cookie sheet. Set aside.
Start a large pot of water. When the water is boiling, gently drop the raviolis into the pot. Cook the raviolis for a minute after the water has returned to a boil. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the raviolis to the serving plates, then ladle over the garlic cream. Drizzle EVOO and chopped parsley on top. Serve immediately.
The Garlic Cream:
● 2 cups of rich chicken stock
● 1 cup of heavy cream
● 1/2 cup creamy goat cheese
● 1/2 cup of garlic cloves
● olive oil
● bouquet garni
● peel from 1 lemon
● EVOO
● chopped parsley
The garlic cream should be light and airy. I like to thicken the sauce a little with a liaison (egg yolks and cream, in this case).
Bring all ingredients together in a pot, bring to a simmer, cook for 15 minutes. Strain the sauce, bring to a light simmer, turn off the heat, then stir in the liaison. Check for seasoning.
Liaison:
● 1/2 cup cream
● 3 egg yolks
Whisk the two together, and incorporate in the sauce when needed.
Kitchen Wisdom:
The garlic cream is the challenge. Do not let it become thick and sticky. Serve once the liaison has done its job.
What to drink:
The dish is rich. All sorts of Zin styles love to be with lamb but here I would go with an “old vines” style so as to not clash with the sauce.
Braised Chicken Thighs with Spinach and Chestnut Pesto
Serves 6
My childhood was spent in a medium-size town in Denmark. My recollection is that about 36,000 called Svendborg home. There was a very large chestnut tree in a small public park right in front of the police station. Everyone knew this tree, and it seemed to drop enough free chestnuts to supply the needs of all of us. I have roasted plenty of chestnuts in my career, especially during the holiday season. They are both nutty and chewy and great fun to work with. They are always a welcome addition to sauces, in this case a pesto, as a stand in for pine nuts. The chicken will be braised much like a coq au vin (without the wine) but will be finished with wilted spinach and the chestnut pesto.
Chestnut pesto:
● 3 lb chestnuts, raw in their shells
● 3 cups of salt for roasting the chestnuts and garlic
● 1 whole garlic bulb
● 1/2 cup parsley, chopped
● 1/2 cup basil leaves
● zest from 1 lemon
● 1/4 cup olive oil
● 1/4 cup EVOO
Make a cross with a small knife on the top of each chestnut (this will take some time but is necessary for them to roast properly). Spread out the salt on a medium sheet tray, place the chestnuts in an even layer on top, sprinkle a little olive oil on the garlic bulb and place it on the tray. Roast for 30 minutes at 325. Remove the tray from the oven. Remove the peel from the chestnuts while warm. Cut the garlic bulb in half and squeeze the softened garlic out from each half. Place 2/3 of the peeled chestnuts into a food processor along with the garlic. Then add the parsley, basil, lemon zest and EVOO. Pulse the mixture into a chunky paste, and set aside. With a knife, roughly chop the last of the chestnuts, and set aside.
The Chicken:
● 12 chicken thighs, bone in and skin on
● olive oil for sautéing
● 3 cups of rich veal stock
● 3 cups of peeled pearl onions
● 1 cup of slab bacon, cut into ¼-inch slices then into 1/4-inch pieces
● a bouquet garni
● the already cooked and chopped chestnuts
In a hot cast iron skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the chicken skin-side down to the pan and cook until the skin is crispy and golden brown. Once there, flip them and brown the meat on the other side. Remove the thighs from the skillet and onto a roasting pan. In the still-hot skillet, add the pearl onions and cook in the rendered fat for 3-4 minutes. Add the chopped chestnuts along with the bacon and sauté for another 3-4 minutes. Now add the veal stock. Bring the stew to a simmer and soigné. Add the chicken thighs to the stew, cover with aluminum foil and place in a preheated 325 oven for 30 minutes. Remove the skillet from the oven, place the chicken pieces in a serving dish, and bring the sauce to a simmer on the stove. Soigné once more, then turn off the heat. Add the chestnut pesto and gently mix into the stew. Check seasoning. Pour the sauce over the chicken thighs, and serve with the spinach.
Spinach:
● 3 lb fresh spinach leaves (late summer spinach is best)
● 2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
● a splash of olive oil
● 1/2 stick of butter
● juice from 1/2 lemon
● 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
● salt and pepper
In a hot skillet, heat the olive oil to medium-high, add the garlic, then the spinach one handful at a time. Wilt spinach in the pan, then add the butter and lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Now mix in the grated cheese. If not serving family style, place a pile of spinach on each plate, two pieces of thicken on top, then ladle the chunky sauce over.
Kitchen Wisdom:
Peel the chestnuts as soon as possible as your fingers allow. This process is much easier when they are hot. Work fast when wilting the spinach so the sauce doesn’t boil in the skillet.
What to drink:
The dish is rich enough to be able to stand up to any type of Zin, but as usual, I lean toward a less high-octane version.
Crema Catalana
Serves 6
It would be wrong to include the crème brûlée recipe without mentioning crema Catalana as well. They differ in ingredients, the French one features cream, of course, while the Catalan version employs milk. Crema is also made as a custard cooked on the stovetop, then poured into ramekins and refrigerated. The final glazing process is the same. While I do think it’s acceptable to substitute a bit of cream in place of some of the milk to get a more crème-like texture, it’s important to respect the history of the dish because these old recipes are hommages to the places they come from. French cuisine has always featured cream in a way that Spanish cuisine has not.
Ingredients:
● 2 cups milk
● 1 cup cream
● 1 vanilla bean, cut in half lengthwise (keep pod for milk mixture)
● 2 strips of orange peel
● 2 strips of lemon peel
● 1 cinnamon stick
● 8 egg yolks
● 1/2 cup turbinado sugar or regular sugar
● 3 tbsp cornstarch
● 1/2 cup sugar
Bring the milk, cream, vanilla and its pod, lemon, orange and cinnamon to a soft boil. Remove from the heat and set aside. Mix egg yolks and sugar, whisking until creamy. Dissolve the cornstarch in 1/4 cup of the milk mixture, then stir it back into the milk mixture. Whisk the milk mixture with the egg yolks and sugar. Place the mixture over a double boiler over medium-low heat. Stir constantly and consistently until the crema thickens. Do not let the mixture get too hot or it will curdle. Continue until it has a smooth, custardy texture.
Pour the crema into the ramekins. Refrigerate overnight or for the remainder of the day prior to service (if making the day of service, you should make the crema early so it has time to completely cool and set). Sprinkle turbinado sugar or regular sugar and glaze as directed for a crème brûlée.
Kitchen Wisdom:
There are no real pro tips for this one. Just be sure your mise is ready, and remain vigilant throughout!
What to drink:
Any Sauternes would work perfectly as with the crème brûlée recipe. But because this one has considerably less cream, no butter and a bit less sugar, you need not track down a heavily botrytised version, which would allow you to save some money.
I hope I have inspired you to have a bit of fun, maybe challenge a dusty pot and pan to return to the stove. Otherwise, call 305-663-2100 for reservations.
Jan Jorgensen
Two Chefs Restaurant
8287 S Dixie Hwy, Miami, FL 33143
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