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I don’t believe that any kitchen is complete without a cast iron pot or cocotte, although these are hard to handle and mostly too big for any kitchen shelf.
It does have an important role in classical dishes such as “Veal Osso Buco,” Braised lamb shank, cooking oxtails and in this mention “Coq au Vin.”
Fall is upon us and much inspiration comes from these months. Usually braised items are what are in fashion.
I’m not sure how many cooks have had the chance of actually making a real “Coq au Vin.” I do know that a lot of braised chicken in wine has been cooked by many culinarians over time.
I had the fortune to actually cook a real “Coq au Vin.” My parents house has a chicken pen.
It came with the house when they bought it. Not that they were looking to purchase live stock when they were house hunting at the time, but a fresh egg in the morning was intriguing enough to keep the pen.
At a visit some time ago, my dad told me he was getting a little tired of the pen. Seven roosters were making life miserable for three “girls” and egg production was on a decline.
Life with chickens was more of a burden, than fun.
Of course the cook in me immediately suggested making a real “Coq au Vin” Only one condition was made… I will not hurt the poor guys, but cooking them I will.
My dad took the task of getting the guys ready. I picked feathers, cleaned and got them ready for the “big cast iron pot.”
A good bottle of wine was selected for the dish. (note: never cook with “cooking wine” cook with wine that you would drink.)
Once the birds had been browned and last ingredients added, waiting was next. More wine was opened, and we waited.
It took seven hours before these old guy’s gave in. I now know why a braise is the way to cook when cooking these types of dishes, but seven hours…
It was the best sauce that I have ever made, in any dish.
Coq au Vin is not new to the culinary scene … Using females versus males is new though. The proper main is a good old rooster.
Some legends trace “Coq au Vin” to ancient Gaul and Julius Caesar, but the recipe was not documented until the early 20th century. It is generally accepted that it existed as a rustic dish long before. A somewhat similar recipe appeared in an 1864 cook book as “poulet au vin blanc.”
It can be debated what wine to use when cooking a Coq au Vin. I like to use a good white Burgundy, or Chardonnay. I find red wine to be too pungent and too dominant, although a mild red will do, such as a Beaujolais or a light Bourgogne. All a personal preference.
One little addition I like to make is a generous pour of a good cognac; it not only adds to the alcohol content but also adds to the layers of flavors obtained by a good braise.
The word “Coq” in French means rooster, and tough birds with lots of connective tissue benefit from braising. Capon is a good alternative. But browning the birds and then simmering them until done is the main event and goal.
In fact this recipe might suggest a new way of cooking the thanksgiving dinner. The French take on “Coq au Vin” into the simple dish that it is, made with mushrooms, onions, bacon, wine and chicken has since then been re-created in millions of kitchen. I have even seen variations where chocolate was an ingredient.
Many versions were floating around when first documented recipes were cemented in the mid 18th century. But the main ingredient was always intended to be the male chicken “rooster or cock” well past his crowing day’s. A rooster who’s no longer cock of the walk has a flesh that is incredibly flavorful and sufficiently sturdy to stand up to the frying, simmering, and yet more simmering demanded by this style of cooking.
Also added were the cockscomb, feet, head and kidneys to obtain maximum flavor. And using the drained blood in the end as a thickening agent was a very common touch.
Getting an old rooster and a cup of blood is not easy to find in the grocery store, so the addition of a brown stock can easily serve as a substitute.
It’s a simple and easy way of adding depth and complexity.
Consider the fact of eating less testosterones and a bloodless “Coq au Vin.” The flavor will still remain pretty darn tasty.
“COQ AU VIN” AT MY PARENTS
1 large bird of your choice, 4 lbs (cut into parts, legs and breasts)
1/2 cup lardons of bacon, cut into 1/4 strips
20 peeled pearl onions
2 cups of a good chardonnay
1/4 cup of cognac
2 cups of veal stock (ask your favorite restaurant for some, or also find in your local grocery store)
30 whole cremini mushrooms, stem removed
Olive oil
Salt and Pepper to taste
Sprig of thyme
Sprig of rosemary
Start with sautéing the bacon. Once rendered, transfer it to a separate dish using a slotted spoon. Next brown the mushroom caps in the same oil; when brown and succulent, transfer to a separate dish.
Make sure that the oil has regained its hot temperature. Next brown the bird parts on all sides.
Next carefully add the cognac, turn the heat to medium and let simmer for five minutes.
Add the veal stock, wine, onions, mushrooms and bacon pieces.
Next let the dish simmer under a lid for an additional 1 1/2 hours, skimming the fat as the dish cooks.
I believe that a simple dish like Coq au Vin should be kept simple. Some recipes will tell you to marinate the birds over night in a wine brine, but they were meant for birds that needed the brine.
Today we use chicken when we make Coq au Vin. Not that the dish has less flavor or integrity, but it remains as one of the best dishes created by man.
And yes… You can find it at TWOCHEFS
Enjoy.
Jan Jorgensen
TWOCHEFS
For information visit www.twochefsrestaurant.com
