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Dear reader…
The following recipes are from years of putting pen to paper, or today, fingertips on a keyboard (1-2 at a time). The recipes are not just a matter of measuring, but also small anecdotes of where, when and why they were cooked. Not all recipes are invented by me, but dishes that were cooked with care, and a passion for the trade. Many of the recipes to follow have seasonal inspirations, as well as daily challenges from awesome people like yourself who were craving a specific dish.
Enjoy….
My Ratatouille with Poached Quail Eggs
Serves 6
I have encountered ratatouille in many recipes and restaurants, yet it has been bastardized by many cooks. Here is a “real” ratatouille, which will bring out each of the distinct flavors.
The quail eggs complement the perfectly cooked vegetables.
I know of course that ratatouille is a dish that deserves much respect. The dish has roots, history and many family traditions surrounding it.
It can be made as a “stew” or more “cleaner” this way.
Ingredients:
● 24 quail eggs
● 1 to 2 tablespoons kosher salt
● 1 1/2 cups eggplant, peeled, diced and seeded
● 1 cup diced zucchini, seeded
● 1 cup yellow squash, diced and seeded
● 1 cup yellow Spanish onion, diced
● 1 cup red bell pepper, diced and seeded
● 1/2 cup olive oil, divided
● 4 to 5 garlic cloves, peeled and cut in thin slices
● pinch of saffron
● 3 tomatoes, blanched, peeled, seeded and diced
● 1/2 cup chicken stock
● 1/4 cup mixed chopped herbs (basil, thyme, and rosemary)
● salt and pepper to taste
Place the quail eggs in cold lightly salted water in a medium saucepan. Just as the eggs are reaching the boiling point, remove them from the water and place in an ice bath (This prevents them from overcooking). When cold, peel off the shells. Set aside.
Place the eggplant in a colander, sprinkling salt over it. Let it rest for 10 minutes, draining out the bitterness. Place on a towel to dry.
In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add enough of the olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Sauté each vegetable one by one — the zucchini, yellow squash, onion and bell pepper. Saute until each takes on a shiny look, about 1 minute per vegetable. Set each vegetable aside in its own dish.
Wipe out the pan, cover with a light coating of olive oil and heat over medium high heat. Sauté the eggplant until firm, but shiny. In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat the remaining oil. Sauté the garlic until golden brown. Add the pre-sauteed vegetables along with the saffron, sauté for approximately 30 seconds. Stir in the chicken stock and tomato meat. Simmer for approximately 1 minute. Add the herbs, season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in quail eggs and let heat through for 1 minute. Divide the ratatouille among six serving bowls, with 4 eggs per serving.
Grilled Asparagus with Mache and Parmesan Oil
Serves 4
Asparagus, like artichokes, contains cynarin, a type of organic acid that will make the wine taste sweet, some might argue… But if peeled and blanched ahead, the sensation will disappear. Temper that with the mache, whose dark leaves have a nutlike flavor, and the Parmesan oil, which imparts a creamy balance to the asparagus.
Ingredients:
● 2 dozen asparagus, jumbo size
● 1/4 cup Parmesan oil (see below)
● 4 small bunches of mache (lamb’s lettuce)
● 2 hard-boiled eggs
● 1/2 cup Reggiano Parmigiano cheese, grated
● salt and pepper to taste
For the asparagus:
Gently break off the lower end of the asparagus and peel them with a vegetable peeler. Blanch* them fast and furiously, (salted boiling water, then into an ice bath which is also salted) Once ice cold remove them from the ice bath, pat them dry with a paper towel.
Roll the asparagus in the Parmesan oil. Grill or broil the asparagus until slightly limp. Set aside.
Parmesan oil:
● 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, sliced
● 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
Finely chop the Parmesan pieces. In a small saucepan over low heat, heat the cheese and oil. Warm the oil for 15 to 20 minutes; do not bring to a boil.
Cover and leave at room temperature for a day or so.
Gently wash the mache. Dry thoroughly. Using scissors, cut the greens off by their base. Arrange a small bouquet on each of the four serving plates. Place six asparagus next to the mache. Grate the eggs over the salad, dividing the eggs equally over the four greens. Sprinkle Parmesan oil over the salad along with the Parmesan shavings.
Chicken Pot Pie
Serves 6
Pot pie in any shape and form has always been my go-to for comfort and nourishment when a little lazy. It also always works when entertaining or cooking everyday meals for the family.
I choose to make “pot pies” in ramekins. I think there is too much dough involved when a pie pan is lined with dough. And the sauce tends to make the bottom soggy. Also it’s easier to eat because it keeps the “pie” together in its serving vessel.
Most pot pies are essentially just a combination of ingredients in a ramekin, some add cream, cover and let it cook. The sauce is the most important component of the dish, but it’s very important to respect the cooking time for each ingredient before it’s finished in the oven. Baking the pastry and then reheating marries all of the parties involved: Pastry (carbs) plus chicken (protein) plus vegetables gives you a complete meal in a neat package.
Pot Pie Mix:
● 6 8-oz ramekins
● 2 qt chicken stock
● 1 cup cream
● 4 chicken legs (wing and thigh)
● 1 medium to large carrot
● 1 cup green peas (fresh if available, otherwise frozen)
● 1 cup pearl onions, peeled
● 2 stalks of celery
● bouquet Garni*
● 2 cup cremini mushrooms
● 1/4 cup of roughly chopped tarragon leaves
● salt and pepper
Cut the carrots and celery into 1/8 inch cubes. Cut the cremini mushrooms into 1/4 inch chunks.
In a small soup pot, bring chicken legs, bouquet garni and chicken stock to a simmer.
Simmer the chicken until cooked through, about 45 minutes. Remove chicken and bouquet garni from broth, let the chicken cool to room temperature. Add vegetables and mushrooms to the chicken broth, Bring back to a boil. remove vegetables and mushrooms, set aside. [Boil? Didn’t boil the chicken. Simmer? For how long?] Simmer, YES cook 25 minutes
To make the Veloute* (sauce):
● 1/4 stick of butter
● 1/4 cup of flour
● Strained poaching liquid from chicken and vegetables
In a small soup pot, melt the butter, then add the flour, whisking constantly in order to make a roux. Add the warm chicken broth, and while stirring, bring Velouté* to a boil, reduce to a simmer and let cook for 15 – 20 minutes. Add the heavy cream. Salt and pepper to taste.
Remove skin and bones from the chicken legs (including the Cartlidge). Then cut the chicken pieces into chunks.
Divide chicken, tarragon and vegetables and add to the ramekins (if there is any extra, freeze it). Cover the filling with the Velouté* and shake the ramekins a little to make sure Velouté has mixed with filling. Refrigerate.
PotPieTopping:
● 1 egg, beaten
● 2 sheets of frozen puff pastry
● 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
For the pie crust, I like to use frozen/store bought puff pastry. Not only is it easier than making your own but is also widely available in grocery stores.
Place the puff pastry sheet on a lightly floured surface. Cut out six rounds about 2 inches larger than the diameter of the ramekins. Place a puff pastry disc over the ramekin, press the dough firmly against the sides with the palm of your hands.
Brush the pastry with the egg and sprinkle the grated cheese on top.
Place pot pies on a sheet tray, bake in the oven at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes until golden brown.
I hope I have inspired you to have a bit of fun, maybe challenge a dusty pot and pan to return to the stove. Otherwise, call 305-663-2100 for reservations.
Jan Jorgensen, Two Chefs Restaurant
